The Project dusts itself off and heads back into the fray—this time, to the tune of Philadelphia’s cringe-inducing North Central area. Some of you actually expressed some concern as to whether or not the Project was losing its nerve. Our last trip to a depressed area was over six months ago, when we braved Fairhill’s abandoned St. Bonaventure. (And no, Norristown doesn’t count.) Our recent visits have included such creampuffs as Bala Cynwyd and Chestnut Hill.
Not exactly the kind of gritty, cutting-edge reporting we built our name on.
Never fear, the Project still has enough cojones to go around. To prove it, we took one of our most courageous trips yet: to the Church of the Advocate, in the heart of North Philadelphia.
It was an interesting experience, to say the least. But more on that later. First, the church, which ranks as the most structurally impressive Protestant buildings in the city. And, perhaps, one of the most impressive overall. Church of the Advocate is a stunning columned, cruciform Gothic behemoth that looms large over Diamond Street.
Gothic designs are often a dime a dozen, but what sets Advocate apart is the opulence of said design. Inside, you get expansive, ribbed vaults and ornate stone carvings at the bases of those vaults. There’s even an actual arcade, which is an incredibly rare feature in these parts.
Outside, you get impressive ornamental stone trimmings, gargoyles, and even, most remarkably, flying buttresses. You know, like the kind you see on Notre Dame de Paris, or other European monstrosities. Said buttresses are a defining feature of Gothic architecture, but Philly’s churches haven’t been structurally demanding enough to require them. Advocate has the only set around, and the Project doesn’t have the words to convey how impressive that is.
Ornamentally, though, things aren’t as impressive. The building is in atrocious shape, so much of the natural beauty of the place is hidden behind layers of damage. They’ve even erected a type of mesh screen between the ceiling and the clerestory windows, perhaps to protect it while they make their improvement plans. Or perhaps, more gruesomely, to keep debris from hitting the parishioners.
Also, the Advocate serves as a sort of repository for a variety of African and African-American artwork, which now adorns all of the walls. I suppose it’s good to see the church serving as a cultural and artistic center, but the Project is by definition an architectural classicist. Put the paintings somewhere else, and let the church’s design speak for itself.
DON’T LOOK FOR THEM: Pews, because the church doesn’t have any. Instead, it has chairs arranged haphazardly throughout the nave, with much of the interior space instead being used for miscellaneous storage. (Another reason the church loses some points.) I can’t find any pictures that show the pews, so I can’t be sure that they ever had them. But I find it hard to believe that a church built in 1897 didn’t have them at some point.
How the $#%@ do I get in here? Advocate does have a classic shape, and a prominent, Roman Catholic-like façade. But like its Protestant brethren, there are still a couple of entrances too many. The real one is off of Gratz Street; don’t be fooled by the others. (They don’t work anyway.)
Size Rating: 9 out of 10
Ornamentation Rating: 8 out of 10
Overall Design Rating: 8.5 out of 10 crosses
